Heat Recovery Ventilation (HRV & ERV) — Fresh Air for Airtight Homes | 1st Choice Heating & Cooling
Heat Recovery Ventilation

Fresh air, without losing the heat.

HRV and ERV systems mechanically ventilate airtight modern homes — extracting stale air from kitchens and bathrooms, drawing fresh filtered air from outside, and transferring the heat (or heat and moisture) between the two airstreams. Specified for Passivhaus, near-Passivhaus, and high-performance residential builds.

★ 4.9 Google rating Passivhaus tradesperson HRV & ERV For airtight builds
OUTSIDE INSIDE HEAT EXCHANGER CORE Fresh air IN cold outside Pre-warmed fresh air into the home Stale warm air OUT from kitchen, bathrooms Cooled exhaust heat stays inside Distributed to bedrooms, living, study Two airstreams · heat transfers without mixing · fresh air without heat loss How it works
This is specialist territory. HRV/ERV is designed for airtight homes — new Passivhaus or near-Passivhaus builds, deep retrofits with double-glazing and proper sealing, or homes built since around 2010 to current high-performance standards. If your home is older with natural air leakage through gaps and openings, you almost certainly don't need this — and a more affordable option will serve you better. See split or ducted systems instead.
Set the right expectation

What heat recovery actually is

A common confusion: HRV/ERV is a ventilation system, not a heating or cooling system. It moves fresh air through your home efficiently. The "heat recovery" means it doesn't waste the heat already in your home when it ventilates — not that it heats the home.

What it does

Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery

  • Continuously extracts stale air from kitchens, bathrooms, laundry
  • Continuously draws fresh filtered air from outside into living spaces and bedrooms
  • Transfers heat between the two airstreams via the heat exchanger core
  • Filters incoming air — removes pollen, dust, particulates
  • Reduces condensation and moisture buildup in well-sealed homes
  • Maintains indoor air quality (CO₂, VOCs) at healthy levels
What it doesn't do

It's not a heating or cooling system

  • Won't warm your home in winter (it recovers heat, doesn't generate it)
  • Won't cool your home in summer (you still need AC for that)
  • Won't dehumidify a damp leaky home — fix the leakage first
  • Won't fix mould in an existing home with ventilation problems
  • Won't deliver value in a home that isn't airtight to start with
The key distinction

HRV vs ERV — and which suits Melbourne

These terms get used interchangeably online but they're not the same thing. The difference matters: pick the wrong one and the system either overdries your home in winter or fails to manage humidity in summer.

Heat only

HRV — Heat Recovery Ventilation

Transfers only heat between the two airstreams. Moisture stays with whichever airstream it was in.

  • Best for cold dry climates
  • Outgoing humid air takes moisture outside
  • Helps dry out high-humidity homes
  • Can over-dry in cold dry weather
Heat + moisture · Usually right for Melbourne

ERV — Energy Recovery Ventilation

Transfers both heat and moisture between airstreams. Maintains more balanced indoor humidity across seasons.

  • Best for mixed/humid climates
  • Retains some humidity in winter (avoids over-drying)
  • Keeps some humidity out in summer
  • Generally a better fit for Melbourne climate

For most Melbourne homes that need mechanical ventilation, ERV is the right call. But it depends on the specific design — we'll confirm during the consultation based on your build's insulation, glazing and orientation.

When to consider HRV/ERV

The home types this is built for

If your home falls into one or more of these categories, mechanical ventilation with heat recovery genuinely earns its place. If it doesn't, you're likely better served by a simpler heating or cooling solution.

Passivhaus or near-Passivhaus builds

Certified or designed-to-standard Passivhaus homes are airtight by definition — they need mechanical ventilation. HRV/ERV is the only way to provide fresh air without compromising the airtight envelope.

New builds aiming for 7+ NatHERS stars

Higher-rated NatHERS builds are progressively more airtight. At 7+ stars, mechanical ventilation becomes worth specifying. At 8+ stars or net-zero targets, it's effectively essential.

Deep retrofits with sealing & double-glazing

If you've done — or are planning — a major renovation that includes air-sealing, draught-stopping and double-glazing throughout, you may have made the home too airtight to ventilate naturally. HRV/ERV solves that.

Persistent indoor air quality issues

Recurring condensation on windows in winter, persistent mould in bathrooms or laundries despite extraction fans, or stuffy indoor air despite normal usage — these can indicate the home would benefit from continuous mechanical ventilation.

Design considerations

Best designed at architectural stage

HRV/ERV systems are easiest and most effective when designed into the home at architectural stage — when ductwork routing, equipment location, and the airtightness strategy can be coordinated together. Retrofit is possible but more constrained.

We work directly with architects, Passivhaus consultants and informed homeowners through the design phase. The system specification — capacity, HRV vs ERV, controller, ducting layout — flows from the home's airtightness target, occupancy, and climate exposure. Generic specs don't perform.

Brief us on your project

What gets designed in

Whole-of-home air flow rates per the home's airtightness
HRV vs ERV selection based on climate and design
Heat exchanger sizing (efficiency varies by unit)
Supply and extract duct routing through cavity
Diffuser placement (supply to bedrooms/living, extract from wet rooms)
Filter access for ongoing maintenance
Annual filter changes are essential — system needs accessible service
Common questions

Heat recovery questions answered

Does an HRV/ERV system heat or cool the home?

No — and this is the single most common misconception. HRV/ERV is a ventilation system. It moves fresh air in and stale air out continuously. The "heat recovery" part means the system salvages the heat already in your home's outgoing air rather than throwing it away. You still need separate heating (hydronic, ducted reverse cycle, splits) and cooling (AC) for the temperature side. Where HRV/ERV reduces heating and cooling loads is by not letting all that conditioned air escape unrecovered when the home ventilates.

Do I need HRV/ERV if I already have ducted reverse cycle?

For most existing homes, no. Ducted reverse cycle recirculates indoor air — it doesn't bring fresh outdoor air in. Older homes ventilate naturally through gaps in the building envelope (around windows, doors, eaves), and that's usually enough. HRV/ERV only becomes worth installing when the home is airtight enough that natural ventilation isn't sufficient — i.e. when sealing the building envelope has been a deliberate design decision.

How airtight does my home need to be for HRV/ERV to make sense?

The technical answer is in air changes per hour at 50 Pascals (ACH50). Australian standard volume-built homes test around 10–15 ACH50 — quite leaky. Modern 7-star NatHERS homes might be 5–8 ACH50. Passivhaus requires under 0.6 ACH50. HRV/ERV starts to genuinely earn its place around 3–5 ACH50; it becomes essential at Passivhaus levels. If you haven't had a blower door test, an honest sense of when the home was built and whether it's been sealed/double-glazed gives a reasonable starting point.

Which brand do you install?

System selection depends on the project's specific requirements — capacity, available space, controls, target efficiency. We work with the major HRV/ERV manufacturers serving the Australian market and recommend based on the design brief, not stock. For Passivhaus or near-Passivhaus builds we typically specify systems with verified heat exchange efficiency ratings appropriate to the home's airtightness target.

How much maintenance does it need?

The main ongoing requirement is filter changes — usually annually for residential systems, sometimes twice yearly in dustier locations. The heat exchanger core itself requires periodic inspection. Skipping filter maintenance is the single biggest cause of HRV/ERV systems underperforming or causing indoor air quality issues themselves. We design installs so the filters are accessible — and we can do annual servicing.

How noisy is it inside the home?

Modern residential HRV/ERV systems run very quietly — typically inaudible in normal occupied rooms when properly designed. Noise sensitivity matters most at the diffuser locations (where air enters bedrooms) and at the unit itself (typically located in a service cupboard or roof void). Quality install includes acoustic damping at both points.

Can I retrofit HRV/ERV to an existing home?

Possibly — but it's significantly more involved than retrofitting most other HVAC systems. The constraints: you need ductwork to every room being supplied or extracted, the unit needs a sensible location with outdoor air access, and the home needs to be airtight enough for the system to actually deliver value. For most existing homes the honest answer is that the cost-to-benefit doesn't stack up unless the home is already being significantly renovated.

How does this relate to Passivhaus certification?

Passivhaus certification requires both an airtightness target (under 0.6 ACH50) and continuous mechanical ventilation with heat recovery. HRV/ERV is therefore not optional in a certified Passivhaus build — it's part of the standard. We work with Passivhaus consultants and architects on certified and near-Passivhaus residential projects. Vitali holds the Passive House Tradesperson credential.

Ready when you are

Designing an airtight home — or building to Passivhaus standards?

Book a design consultation and we'll work through ventilation strategy, HRV vs ERV selection, capacity, ducting and equipment siting — coordinated with your architect, builder, or Passivhaus consultant.